![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() It also cuts deep, my 200mm blade will cut 60mm deep slots. There are some very minor ridges due to angle of the teeth when cutting 18mm but nothing more than about 0.3mm. My wobble saw does a pretty good job between 3 and 18mm and contrary to what people say, it doesn't leave a rounded bottom to the cut. They don't come with spurs, so the cuts might not be perfect, but I can always get a grooving cutter if I want really clean square cut slots. Like everything, it sounds like a good idea but. I'd not heard of the flush mounted tooling, the Whitehill sales guy suggested it over tenon blocks, but you're right, it puts all the loading on the wrong end of the arbor. Initially I only need 48mm max depth into a scribed joint. Would these be tenoned all the way through? A tenon disk is the only thing that would cut that depth - unless I used a flush rebate tool and took a few cuts! The BF6 manual says the tool width limit is 230mm but I don't know if this is just the limit of the hood. Re tenon lengths, at some point I want to make a couple of doors, I see older doors can have stiles that are getting on for 125mm wide. The motor is 4.3kw so there is quite a bit of grunt there. It has a very gradual start stop profile at the moment. Hi Paul, thanks for that informative reply! Re spindle speeds, I am running a VFD, so I am only limited on max RPM by the belts, 7800rpm. ![]()
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